Protein & Moisture

When I first started my hair journey, I just assumed that I would need both of these for my terribly damaged hair. I had never used a protein/ strengthening conditioner so I just alternated between the two.

Your Hair Needs both for healthy hair!
Protein and Moisture work together to produce healthy hair. They cannot work without each other. Keeping the hair balanced between these two is very important. Hair that has been properly treated with protein absorbs moisture more efficiently and effectively as the water molecules bind easily to a solid protein structure within the hair.

Too much of a Good Thing
I now know that there is a time to use a particular type of conditioner and also that you can have too much of a good thing. The key to protein and moisture is balance. You can use too much protein and not enough moisture and vice a versa. It is important to know when your hair has had enough or not enough moisture or protein.

• Too much protein - I encountered this scenario often in the beginning of my hair journey. Once I discovered protein, I just ran with it. However I hadn't been using an effective moisture conditioner during the week. My hair started breaking again and was rough, coarse even, not quite like a scouring brush but I was using a lot of leave in conditioner every day. The more my hair broke the more protein I used. Seems sensible right? Wrong. All I was doing was overloading my hair with protein and not treating it with moisture at all. In this case your hair will become super stretchy but will break as it lacks solid protein structure.

• Too much Moisture - This happened to me recently when I ran out of my strengthening conditioner and just carried on without that balance. Thus is probably more common as we buy conditioners in the Tesco or Sainsbury's with their snazzy titles Super Replenishing Moisturising Conditioner for Ultra Dry Hair. After a while Your hair looks dull, and is very weak. It feels extra stretchy when wet but is just limp and has no life. In this case Your hair will break easily whether wet or dry. Your hair needs elasticity or it becomes difficult to style hair and it will just break.

When to Use a Particular Type of Conditioner

OK! So how do I know when I need to use a particular conditioner.

Your hair is balanced if your hair stretches slightly and returns to its original length without breaking.

However add protein to your hair diet:

• If your hair stretches a little more than normal then breaks.
• Stretches quite a bit with no significant breakage yet
• When your hair is wet it feels weak, gummy, mushy, or limp.

Add Moisture to your hair diet if:

• Your hair doesn't stretch or stretches very little and simply snaps or breaks.
• When dry your hair feels rough, tough, hard, dry, tangly, brittle, or any combination.

Are you still not sure?
Start with adding more moisture and see how you get on with your breakage from there.

I also know it take a lot of trial and error to get this right but you see your hair every day and know what it looks like so after a while you will get to know it better and hopefully treat it right.

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity
Leilu

References:
The Science of Black Hair; http://blackhairscience.com/hair_breakage.html

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My attempt at a single cornrow

I have always wanted to do this my entire life but my hair has never been long enough. Its probably not that impressive to people who have always had well taken care of hair but this is the first time I have ever been able to do a single cornrow without tucking the end into the back of my hair.
I always take pics like this because it like a moment in my hair story that I can look back at in the future and see what how far I've come.

Pic of my hair Lara Croft style

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Paraben Free Products for Afro Hair in the UK

There is an ongoing scientific debate about parabens and they are very controversial at the moment hence the rise of paraben free products on the market.

What is a Paraben?

Parabens are a class of chemicals used as preservatives in cosmetics. they are mainly used because of their bacterial and fungicidal properties and are particulary popular because of their high efficacy and low cost. They are produced by the esterification of para-hydroybenzoic acid with an appropriate alcohol.

Why use Parabens as a Presevative?

They can be found in many cosmetic products from shampoos and shaving gels to makeup and spray tan. Preservatives are what stops microbes from spoiling your cosmetics and causing disease. Essentially parabens are a cheap, synthetic and effective way of stopping your cosmetics becoming full of microbes that can cause disease. 

Are these preservative dangerous?

A danish study showed that when paraben cream was applied to the backs of healthy male volunteers that the chemical could be measured in their blood after a matter of hours. Parabens are known to be absorbed, metabolised and excreted quite quicken so this would make sense.

"Preservatives are designed to kill cells. That is why they are effective. Unfortunately, that is also why they are potentially hazardous. They do not easily discriminate between good human cells and bad microbial cells but ultimately, the risk from using preservatives is significantly lower than that of using unpreserved cosmetics"

(O'Lenick,, 2010).

However, so far there has been no link to the possible carcinogenicity of parabens and their continuous use, hence the ongoing scientific debate.

So if this information which should be looked at as objectively as it can be has scared you, here are some Paraben Free brands which are available in the UK:

Paraben Free Brands Available in the UK

• Jane Carter Solution - A US company hoping to fill the need for natural hair products that work effectively on all hair types.
• Bee Mine - natural & organic products that would help increase hair growth and assist in rebounding from conditions like Alopecia.
• Afrocenchix - blending naturally sourced ingredients with know-how and a dash of creativity.
• Mixed Chicks - whether you’re Black, white, or any other glorious mixture you can define, you’ll love the way these non-sticky, alcohol free and lightweight products really define your curls and lock in moisture at the same time.
• Phyto Masks including Phytojojoba
• Hand Made Naturals
• AfroDeity Essential (coming soon!)

I have only tried a few of these brands and if I have made any mistakes with this list please do not hesitate to correct me. Please, Please, Please comment and add to this list it is by no means extensive. I hope to add more as I come by them.

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity 

Leilu

Resources:

Anthony J. O'Lenick, Jr., (2010) Siltech; Cosmetics and Toiletries; Comparatively Speaking: Cosmetic Preservatives; http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/formulating/ingredient/preservatives/91617569.html?page=3

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Ready for the Chop! Help Nik Decide.

Our resident model Nikki is thinking of transitioning?

Here is a picture of her natural hair. She has just removed her weave and after six months of weaving she can't decide. So we are asking you!

What are your views? Help Nik decide! What are the main things she will have to be aware of if she transitions? Post here and let us know what are the main things she will have to be aware of if she transitions? Are you transitioning, what helped you make the decision?

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Black Hair Magazines UK

Hi There,


If  you don't live in a major city, you cant pop into your local boots or tesco and find a hair care magazine. Luckily with the advent of technology you can now read these online.


Here are a few UK Mags that I've found for info on hair trends and styles:




Natural Bloom - A Black Hair Magazine featuring all things natural, distributed by the Natural Haven.
Pride - A beauty magazine for black women.
SistazMag - An online magazine created by women for women and the men who love to know about them
Precious -  An online magazine, network and resource for women of colour. Hair Tips too!
Tiya - Hair, beauty and fashion for creative people, 
The AfroWomans Ezine - I guess the name says it all. A website giving afro-women beauty products news, recipes and articles to boost their self-esteem.
Black Beauty and Hair - One of the big brands when it comes to black hair mags here in the UK
Black Hair - Another big UK hair magazine 


Let us know of any more!


Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity 
Leilu


<a href="http://www.bloglovin.com/blog/2570336/afrodeity?claim=fqcjdjbzxb7">Follow my blog with Bloglovin</a>


5JGF64F8ZS7Z 

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GTD your hair journey

GTD or getting things done is a organisational method created by David Allen. I have followed this method of getting tasks done in every aspect of my life except of course in my hair and skin care regimes.

I mean why would I apply these methods here. But I have found that here is another place that I can truly GTD in my life.

Principles of GTD:

• Identify
• Remove
• Create 
• Prioritise
• Do

Before you even start GTDing you need to do two things 1) Tidy Up - Remove all the things in your hair life which you feel are harmful rather than helpful. 2) Mindset - Change your mindset. Your long hair journey or just your hair journey is possible you just have to change that negative mindset that keeps telling you its is not.

How to apply this to your hair, GTDing your hair:

1. Identify: 

• What in your hair life isn't in the right place.
• Do you have the right tools for your type of hair or lots of the wrong ones. 
• Do you stress and pull your hair out.
• Are you using the correct relaxer or natural hair care products
• Why do you have dandruff? dry scalp? breakage?

2. Remove

• Get rid of stuff that isn't appropriate for your hair type.
• Get rid of stuff you dont use anymore - why are you keeping it?

3. Create 

• Create a hair care diary or picture vault to record your journey 
• Join forums or groups that will help support you on your journey

4.Prioritise

• What does you hair need most, a trim?, moisture?, protein?
• Put your head in the right place for your journey
• Start at the top of your list of hair needs and work through them one by one

5. Do

• Just Do It
• If you dont at least try, you will never know your try hair potential
• Start your journey and do those things on your list now

This is my interpretation of GTDing your hair. Anyone else GTD? Have I got it right? Anything else you want to add?

Answers on a postcard

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity 

Leilu

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Do I have a Hair Obsession?

Family and friends constantly laugh at my 'hair obsession' as they call it. I am a little confused by this as I would never laugh at someone who is on a diet and tell them they were weight obsessed. Just because I have decided to change the way that I care for my hair doesn't make me obsessed, just mindful. I set my self a goal and I made my way towards changing something about myself.

So I dont really see this as an obsession but as a positive change. 

• I started washing my hair more frequently.We bathe everyday and yet some think it is acceptable to keep our hair and scalp dirty for days or weeks on end.
• I now keep a hair diary and a picture vault. How can I keep on complaining about my hair not growing, if I dont know where I was a year ago and if the products I am using are any good. Also I have set myself a goal to work towards 
• I now find time for my hair. I have always found time for my skin( I guess I must have a skin obsession too) because of my eczema. I wash my skin and moisturise it daily. I guess I have just extended this chore to my hair and scalp as well.

How much do you really want to change your hair habits? I suppose you actually have to want to change, as with anything weight loss, education, damaged skin. There is no point continuing on the present course and expecting change, You have to want it and work towards it.

So how you get started:

1. Take a picture, today, tomorrow, whenever you feel you need to start and ask yourself am I happy with my hair ?

2. Throw out al those haf bottles of product that dont work have never worked but yet you keep buying. I suppose I am not saying through out the stuff you used your hard earned cash to buy, but at least take a good look at it and decided if it will actually help you on your new journey.

3. The internet is a great resource. Quite a lot of inspiration to be found here.

4. Start washing your hair weekly. Water is good for your hair. You will see a change.

5. Set a goal, What length hair would you realistically be happy with.

6. Dont expect your hair to grow to MBL in a month or even a year, if you dedicate yourself to this journey, you will see change and growth in time. Everyones hair growth is different and so is everyones journey.

I hope this helps you get started.

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity

Leilu

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How I Blow Dry and Straighten my hair

Hi again,

As I said in my last post about air drying I do sometimes use a blow dryer, I just do it in moderation, maybe once a month or every two months and on special occasions and i also use a heat protector. At the moment it is the GHD heat protector for dry hair but I have also been know to use the Jane Carter Solution Leave In Revitalising Spray, which is also a great detangler.

Here is my step by step hair drying routine

1. Detangle hair in the shower - gently with a wide toothed comb, or just fingers, go through hair, please bear in mind it is fragile when it is wet so BE VERY GENTLE. Fingers are probably best. Slowly detangle your hair and bring it back in one direction on the head.

2. As I get out of the shower I wrap my hair in a muslin square or t-shirt ( as with Hairlicious T-shirt method). I leave along with wringing or rubbing my hair for 5 - 7 minutes.

3. I apply Jane Carter Solution Wrap & Roll to my hair , followed by the GHD heat protectant and my usually daily moisturiser. Then I seal the ends of my hair with an oil. Usually Coconut Oil or Castor Oil. The oil molecules are larger than the water molecules and as such keep the moisture in your hair. This is an important step as the blow dryer and/or straighteners pull moisture out of your hair. 

4. I then part the hair in four sections and blow dry each section.

5. After I have blow dried and before I striaghten. I apply a very small amount of moisturiser. Just a little as if your hair is to wet it will sizzle under the straighteners, so make sure you have dries it properly.

6. I then straighten my hair.

Other tips: moisturise and oil your scalp before blow drying in the same way as you di your hair to avoid drying the scalp.

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity 

Leilu 

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The Sock Bun

Okay maybe everyone else has already seen this and as usual I am late to the party, but I had to post about it.

I bun my hair quite alot and I do get quite nice waves after a bun but nothing like in this video. The first video is about how to do a sock and the second about the waves you get after the sock bun.
I so have to try this.

Awesome!!!

Then the Waves

What did you think. I loved it but I am easily pleased. Anyone think they have seen better?

Embrace Your Inner AfroDeity

Leilu

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How I Air Dry My Hair

So this air drying thing, how does it work?

Quite a few people ask me this. I mean if you air dry your hair doesn't it just go back to curly how you keep it straight and neat and not frizzy and fly away, isn't that why a blow dryer should be used?

I am not saying I never use a blow dryer, I just do it in moderation, maybe once a month or every two months and on special occasions and I also use a heat protector. At the moment it is the GHD heat protector for dry hair but I have also been know to use the Jane Carter Solution Leave In Revitalising Spray, which is also a great detangler.

Here is my step by step hair drying routine

1. Detangle hair in the shower - gently with a wide toothed comb, or just fingers, go through hair, please bear in mind it is fragile when it is wet so BE VERY GENTLE. Fingers are probably best. Slowly detangle your hair and bring it back in one direction on the head.

2. As I get out of the shower I wrap my hair in a muslin square or t-shirt (as with Hairlicious T-shirt method). I leave along with wringing or rubbing my hair for 5 - 7 minutes.

3. I apply Jane Carter Solution Wrap & Roll to my hair, followed by my usually daily moisturiser. Then I seal the ends of my hair with an oil. Usually Coconut Oil or Castor Oil. The oil molecules are larger than the water molecules and as such keep the moisture in your hair. This is an important step as the blow dryer and/or straighteners pull moisture out of your hair. 

4. I then part the hair in four sections slowly comb through with a wide tooth comb. If your hair is particular damaged I might avoid this step. 

5. I then decide how I am going to wear my hair for the next 3 days, side parting, middle parting, no parting and I manipulate my hair gently in that direction, leaving the parting where I would like it. 

6. A head band to wrap the front is great way to keep the front straight and gently pulled  held in the style you decided on. The hair will then keep its shape or you could tie a scarf around the front of your hair. Leave the back out and that way your ends can dry.

I usually keep my hair in a bun to protect it so there is no need to straighten unless you were planning to leave your hair out. I also find that after an overnight bun I get great waves in the back and the front of my hair has been kept neat by the head band.

Also another tip: Never go to bed with wet hair. Make sure it dries before putting your silk scarf on for the night.

I hope to get a video up of this but if you have questions I am only an email away 

Do you use this method or some other? Share it with us

Embrace YOur Inner AfroDeity 

Leilu

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